Vitali Gelwich for 032C
032c
032c Issue #41, Summer 2022
MONA TOUGAARD wears Chanel. Photo: Jackie Nickerson
JAMES JEANETTE wears Louis Vuitton. Photo: Kristina Nagel
FREDERIKKE SOFIE wears Loro Piana. Photo: Casper Sejersen
GOI MANASE wears Adidas x Gucci. Photo: Szilveszter Makó
Seals and Sea Lions in La Jolla, CA. Photo: Joerg Koch
“But Is it Art? But Is it Legal? But Is it Legit?”
“Jesus” shoes filled with Holy Water. “Satan” ones filled with blood. An unauthorized Hermès / Birkenstock hybrid. Backed by venture capital and buffered by in-house legal counsel, MSCHF will lift your logo and sell it as their own—if you’re lucky. The 032c Issue #41 dossier is an insider’s guide to the New York collective conjuring mystique (and money) with trickster magic. Elsewhere, NAN GOLDIN and DURGA CHEW-BOSE trace the limitless lines of JULIE MEHRETU, whose fellow painter JULIAN SCHNABEL lets SVEN MICHAELSEN into his (mostly outdoor) inner sanctum. THOMAS JEPPE uncovers the Ballardian base layers of painter SERGIO SARRI, caught in Paris by PIERRE-ANGE CARLOTTI, and MAHFUZ SULTAN travels the vaporous world of DILLER SCOFIDIO + RENFRO, the architectural powerhouse blurring the boundaries and buildings of cultural space. MAX DAX assembles an oral history of HARD WAX, the Kreuzberg record store making Berlin the European epicenter of techno since 1989. Across the Atlantic, DALLAS is an unlikely blueprint for urban futures, distilled in 41 points by ZAC CRAIN. LOURDES “LOLA” LEON is fire and ice for ANGELO DOMINIC SESTO. RAS BARTRAM makes his 032c fashion director debut with four editorials, outfitting MONA TOUGAARD under big skies for JACKIE NICKERSON, tying knots with KRISTINA NAGEL, playing house with GOI MANASE for SZILVESTER MAKÓ, and channeling the northern lights with FREDERRIKE SOFIE for CASPER SEJERSEN.
PLUS: curator Agnes Gryczkowska, YouTube streamers HÖR, racecar driver Laura-Marie Geissler, honorary Texan Carolina Alvarez-Mathies, and NOLA Mardi Gras chief Bo Dollis Jr. gather in SOCIÉTÉ de 032c; the X-FILES introduces the cyborgs, shamans, mystics, and magicians of the expanded 032c.com universe; and, as always, we outro the issue with the BERLIN REVIEW, surveying our favorite reads of the literary season.
032c Issue #39, Summer 2021
032c Issue #39
Summer 2021
“THE HOSPITAL OF THE FUTURE”
“It seemed like eternal life was within reach… but at what cost, and by whose work?”
The Office of Metropolitan Architecture’s third cover dossier for 032c considers THE HOSPITAL OF THE FUTURE: the world’s next biggest design problem. As new attitudes and technologies emerge alongside novel viruses, the research team behind this speculative report, introduced by OMA partner REINIER DE GRAAF, asks: What could the hospital be, tomorrow?
TROIS FEMMES PUISSANTES: Pop princess DUA LIPA spellbinds in High London Goth for Jordan Hemingway’s analog lens. Poet, photographer, songstress, and star SHYGIRL gets comfortable in her own lane, and ERIC JOHNSON meets her there. K-pop star turned solo rap queen CL proves there is Alpha status after the girl group. Historian KARL SCHLÖGEL tracks the scent of totalitarianism, following the perfume of imperial Europe from COCO CHANEL to the Kremlin. A-Cold-Wall* designer SAMUEL ROSS talks W.E.B. Du Bois, streetwear, and the semiotics of working-class England. With an international footprint in contemporary art, gallerists MONIKA SPRÜTH and PHILOMENE MAGERS provide a case study in 21st-century globalism. WU TSANG, BOYCHILD, JOSH JOHNSON, and ASMA MAROOF represent MOVED BY THE MOTION: a “roving band” that grew out of LA’s queer party scene, now settled in a theater in Zürich. Pasolini, Mussolini, VILLA FELTRINELLI: in an interview with the Grand Hotel’s MARKUS ODERMATT, SVEN MICHAELSEN explores the fraught and fabulous history of a luxury oasis on Lake Garda. And, at last, DANKO and ANA STEINER return their fashion romance to the pages of 032c, bringing supermodel GEORGIA PALMER back from the depths with them.
PLUS – Marcel Proust went looking for it, but we found it: Société de 032c presents LE TEMPS PERDU. Editor Felix Burrichter celebrates PIN-UP’s quinceañera; producer Black Noi$e gets silly at home in Detroit; DJ Amelie Lens eyes new talent; and shapewear entrepreneur Emma Grede trades glass ceilings for glass walls. We end the issue, as we always do, with our favorite books of the season in a new installment of BERLIN REVIEW.
Cover 1/4: DUA LIPA by Jordan Hemingway and Marc Goehring
Cover 2/4: SHYGIRL by Eric Johnson
Cover 3/4: CL by Mok Jungwook
Cover 4/4: GEORGIA PALMER by Ana Steiner and Danko Steiner
032c Issue #38 — Winter 2020/2021: “20 Years”
032c Issue #38 — Winter 2020/2021: “20 Years”
SUPREME founder James Jebbia called 032c “the last truly great culture magazine.” 032c Issue #38 celebrates the first two decades with a 28-page fold-out chronicling our evolution from DIY Berlin to the world of ready-to-wear, featuring commentary and a timeline of global 21st century cultural production by tech and media arbiter NEW MODELS, a visual audit by VIRGIL ABLOH, and a message from ANNA WINTOUR. Gemini legend and 2020 chart-slayer GUNNA incarnates rap’s mythological hero of the year. MAHFUZ SULTAN and ARI MARCOPOULOS unearth MICHAEL HEIZER’s secret desert sanctum. ROB HARDY, cinematographer of the “inexorable” behind the visual landscapes of Ex Machina, Annihilation, and Devs, shows SHUMON BASAR what the future looks like now. A newly repatriated, chain-smoking DAVID HOCKNEY gives dubious health advice to SVEN MICHAELSEN – then SVEN MICHAELSEN heads for the (Waldhaus) Sils to learn hospitality from hotel maestro URS KIENBERGER. Theories of automation, labor, and the self take an intimate turn when MCKENZIE WARK Zooms SUSAN BENNETT, the original voice of Siri. At Bottega Veneta, DANIEL LEE bears all – and flourishes. ADRIANO SACK talks Kraftwerk, Kippenberger, and West Berlin with CLAUDIA SKODA, fashion’s unsung knitwear queen. Photo-based artist DEANA LAWSON shares images that once evaded public view, having landed instead on her cutting room floor. “Slowed and Throwed” icon DJ SCREW proves magnificent and immortal – in Houston, and around the globe. JACK SELF tours MATTHEW M. WILLIAMS’ new abode: the house of Givenchy. Diamond-bejeweled Italian stream-screen sensation ALICE PAGANI leads LUKAS WASSMANN through an art-rich Roman Palazzo. Leading light of NY theater JEREMY O.HARRIS holds the stage at a mannerist Schloss in Austria for a BRUNO STAUB and MARC GOEHRING production. Elsewhere on the old continent, HUGO COMTE casts KRIS GRIKAITE in a Parisian roman-à-clef.
Plus: Société de 032c presents PROGNOSTIQUE DES TEMPS MODERNES with pop star Dua Lipa, menswear bromatics Jerry Lorenzo and Alessandro Sartori, artworld emulsifier Aria Dean, man in Milan Francesco Vezzoli, Twitter nihilist Nolen Gertz, distiller Max Luz, and musical futurist Gaika. At last, as ever, we turn the pages of our favorite books of the season in a new installment of BERLIN REVIEW.
Party Girl: 032c Ready To Wear
Party Girl
032c Ready To Wear Paris Fashion Week Launch & Lookbook
Unveiled in a Paris Fashion Week presentation at Lafayette Anticipations, PARTY GIRL is a proposal for brutal elegance, conceived in Berlin, Germany. The collection launch marks 032c Ready To Wear’s official entrance into the seasonal fashion calendar with a hardcore interpretation of formal minimalism, disrupted through the media and fashion brand’s philosophy of juxtaposition, curiosity, and experimentation.
Featured here are images from the PARTY GIRL look book, modeled by Luca Gajdus and shot in Berlin by Max Von Gumppenberg.
The event took place in the heart of the Marais, in the 19th century hôtel particulier recently renovated by Rem Koolhaas/OMA to house the cultural projects of the Galeries Lafayette foundation. In the venue’s glass-enclosed rooftop gallery, looks were presented on posed mannequins arranged in a circle, inviting viewers to walk around the clothing and explore each garment’s materials and fabrication in detail. The installation was “deliberately boring,” according to 032c Ready To Wear creative director Maria Koch, whose intention was to create the “antithesis of a fashion spectacle” to allow an immediate, up-close experience of the collection.
The collection emphasizes material and technical quality, which is energetically revealed and concealed. Counterintuitive pairings of fabrics and design subvert classic garments such as the white button-up shirt or the little black dress. Bonded buttons and trompe l’oeil layers in outerwear veil functional details and structure, while external darts and visible tailoring expose them. Contrasting textures and shapes pair soft draped tops and dresses with sculpted leather and canvas volumes. Fabrics associated with functional clothing are reinterpreted in elegant evening attire, referencing 032c’s background in workwear in the context of luxury standards. Asymmetrical cut-outs and lush Swarovski Crystal embellishments elevate and complicate otherwise stark silhouettes, adding a sense of accident and excess to the garments’ rigor and intention. Heritage production methods are adapted for contemporary fabrics benefitting from new technology and environmental guidelines. Ethically sourced fabrics feature prominently: a GOTS-certified fur alternative by the German brand Steiff appears as an evening dress and a classic, military-cut winter coat.
The Autumn/Winter 2020/2021 womenswear collection introduces 032c Ready To Wear’s first line of women’s footwear, produced and distributed with support from Onward Luxury Group and designed by Francesco Russo, who is known for his sharp and sensual takes on classic heels. “We are so happy to be working with Onward, to have the support of their CEO Fabio Ducci, and to be collaborating with the amazing Francesco Russo on our first line of heels,” says Maria Koch. The PARTY GIRL presentation also celebrated 032c’s ongoing partnership with adidas in a lush adaptation of the German sportswear brand’s classic “Campus” court shoe, encased in Swarovski Crystal.
Photography Max Von Gumppenberg
Model Luca Gajdus
Fashion Maria Koch
Hair and Makeup Paloma Brytscha
Anna Ewers for 032c
Anna Ewers for 032c
Photography by Ferry Van Der Nat
Ferry Van Der Nat photographs megamodel Anna Ewers in this season’s Bottega Veneta, designed by the sensational Daniel Lee, for the cover of 032c Issue #38 (Summer 2020).